Daniele Di Bari started his career in design with an internship at an Italian tailor. A stint in High-street fashion design followed, and earlier this year he launched his own namesake label. His debut collection comprises architectural pieces in neutral hues of leather, silk, jersey and goat hair.
Tell us about your debut collection. Where did inspiration stem from?
The collection reflects dynamism with an air of elegance and femininity. Most of my inspiration comes from car design, mixed with modern architecture. I am constantly searching for things that make the look of a garment modern and fresh. Objects that create movement are for me, very inspiring and exciting.
For example, try for a moment to imagine a Ferrari with a flower print design on the frame, instead of the trademark red colour: to me, this is amazing. I used this idea when considering the shape of my dresses.
When designing, I look to designers such as Versace â€“ in particular Gianniâ€™s 1990â€™s collections, and Mugler in the 1980â€™s-90â€™s.
Your dream was always to launch your own company. Working as a designer for high-street companies, what was the most valuable lesson you learnt?
My dream since being a young teenager was indeed to set up my own company, I think this is due to my desire to be independent and do everything myself: I am, and have always been a self-made man.
I learnt a great deal during my time working with both high-end and high street fashion brands, both in Italy and London. One particular thing I took from these experiences is to be as commercial as possible for the success of my company. However - it is important to not forget my own identity and interpretation of things, which is an experimental combination of both commercial and sex appeal.
What are the plans for Daniele Bardis next season?
Next season we want to achieve the attention of the glossy magazines and expand our list of stockists.
The SS14 collection will encompass three different prints in a gold and blue colour palette, on sophisticated architectural shapes. The collection will also have an extremely fresh taste and great harmony, with the colours creating an irresistible wow factor.
Daniele Bardis is currently stocked in Linea, Hampstead.
by Roberta Lister
Sunday evening, Jimmy Choo and Esquire hosted a party for the London Collections: Men (LC:M) at an exclusive members club, 5 Hertford Street. There was a refreshing elegance to this party, hosted by Jimmy Choo's Creative Director Sandra Choi and Esquire's Editor Alex Bilmes, which took place in the plant-adorned courtyard and the ostentatious rooms in the lower levels of the club.
Samuel L. Jackson, Jesse Metcalfe, Tinie Tempah, David Gandy and Oliver Cheshire, the leading men of this season's LC:M front row, all turned up looking dapper, along with acting heavyweights such as Thandie Newton and Kerry Washington. DJ Mark Ronson entertained the guests and had them dancing late in to the night, whilst others found their way in to the pop-up casino.
It was a perfect partnership between Jimmy Choo, who were showing their SS14 men's collection at LC:M, and Esquire, who have been a concrete presence for the first three seasons at LC:M.
by Joseph Kocharian
I am not the cancer installation
Part of a new European breast cancer campaign focusing on the forgotten voices of women with advanced, incurable breast cancer, the sound installation I am not the cancer launches in Brussels today. Created by acclaimed artists John Wynne and Tim Wainwright, the installation powerfully communicates the real-life experiences of patients living with advanced stage breast cancer and works as a platform where they can share their thoughts and experiences and help raise awareness and understanding for this condition.
I am not the cancer is part of the Here & Now campaign, an advanced breast cancer disease
awareness initiative supported by Novartis Oncology.
by Elisabeth Krohn
Images: Here & Now
For Resort 14, Arabic design duo Noon by Noor take their cues from 1950â€™s Americana, with bold prints brought up-to-date on fluid, relaxed silhouettes. A youthful colour palette of sugary pinks, peppermint and vanilla adds to the girly vibe, with flamingo and palm tree motifs adding a touch of quirk.
We love the drop-waist, palm-tree satin dress layered over a preppy pinstripe shirt, and the boxy flamingo tee clashed with contrasting trousers.
by Roberta Lister
The pre-summer â€˜14 Givenchy collection sees Tisci toying with the gender divide to offer a delightfully androgynous assortment of transitional pieces. Inspired by the classic rag-doll aesthetic of Holly Hobbie, Tisci presents an ultra-luxe take on mismatched layering.
The collection is a simple fusion of stereo-typically masculine and feminine pieces: featuring heavily are belted trench coats, A-line sundresses, sharp two-piece suits, cigarette pants and wide-leg culottes. Once layered together, these simple, linear pieces become jarring, yet undeniably beautiful outfits.
Fabrics were weather-appropriate, with stretch silk cady, macramÃ© lace, waxed cotton and duchess satin all prominent. Prints were a development from seasons past, with camouflage and floral elements interspersed within the monochrome palette.
Outfits were completed with handmade jewellery in onyx, mother-of-pearl, brown obsidian and coloured crystal, and the classic Obsidia bag, re-invented in floral camo-printed nappa, burgundy lambskin, and crystal-embellished snakeskin.
by Roberta Lister
This July, BrazilÂ´s eight most promising new fashion designers will be showcasing their work in London and Paris for the first time through the Brazilian business incubator program Ponte Zero. From its beginnings in 2009, the program - a partnership between Texbrasil and the local Brazilian trade show Mercado Mundo Mix and the fashion week Casa de Criadores - has worked to develop an international market for the emerging designers and to provide them with essential tools and structure to grow in a globally.
The eight chosen, Cynthia Hayashi, Karin Feller, Gralias, Spirodiro Gabriela Sakate, Helen RÃ¶del, Trendt and Der Metropol, will be receiving a day of mentoring on July 3 in London for the designers from key buyers, press and fashion authorities. On the evening of July 4 celebratory event and designer showcase will take place in the evening in East London.
The designers will be stocked at Not Just A Label from July 2013.
by Elisabeth Krohn
Images: In Addition
A humid and close day in London adds to the greenery scattered around the collection and the space becomes a mini greenhouse habitat.
Brushed performance fabrics, peached jerseys, perforated suede, raw silk and woven wools have been artfully mixed and paired in select garments to form the core of the collection allowing the technical skill of the designs to shine through.
New branding for the brand is evoked through a badge of honour symbolised by a palm tree and Amsterdam and British emblems that represent the roots of the design duo.
by Calvin Baillie
The students were taken to Abruzzo to discover Brioni's atelier and the preserve of high quality craftsmanship. Mentorship was provided by master tailor Angelo Petrucci, with the student's final submissions being exhibited in the house's London flagship store.
This year's judging panel was headed up by Brioni Creative Director Brendan Mullane, and Royal College of Art Rector Paul Thompson. The duo were joined by industry figures to assertain the most promising creations from the young designers.
Dan Prasad took home the Brioni Award, whilst Sungbin Cho took the Creativity Award, and Ellen Pedersen the Tailoring Award.
Winning looks from Dan Prasad; Sungbin Cho and Ellen Pedersen
by Roberta Lister
The turnout for these shows has gone from strength to strength each season as London has a stronger pull over the fashion set and buyers alike. And we kick off with the established designer James Long.
Famous for his knitwear, Long takes on SS14 with the cycling theme beyond the velodrome. The result is a collection which takes the shapes and styles of cycling apparel but adds a James Long twist.
Zip up jackets come in mesh, cut neatly at the waist and setting the silhouette for the entire collection. Denim has been rubberised (denim DIY treatments seem to be key for SS14) with gloss stripes running across shorts and jackets.
Long collaborates again with Kurt Geiger London for the collections footwear to create amazing rubberised trainers.
The music pulsing as quickly as a bike in a velodrome as the collection's stripes push the aesthetic faster.
Key pieces include: a hand knitted racing stripes jumper; printed lycra T-shirts; cycle print shirts; and pieces in which navy and white contrasted against each other.
by Calvin Baillie
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