glass magazine || Cat.85's blog

23/02/2010 00:48:18

By Yasmin Bilbeisi

In a progressive move that surely disgusted fashion-industry elitists, the Calvin Klein show was broadcast live via the Internet for the first time ever. However, as I approached the venue, I saw swarms of tourists, wistful fashionistas, and accidental onlookers teeming outside the venue. It seems that not even live webcasting could threaten the mystique of one of Fashion Week's most established labels (and hermetic shows).

Inside, a herd of salivating photographers milled around Naomi Watts, Kate Bosworth and Helena Christensen. The pop of flashes and glare of Hollywood smiles gave way to darkness, as 'sound artist' Alva Noto's light show began. This cutting edge opening set the tone for the subsequent parade of equally forward looks.

The opening outfit's balloon sleeves and 3/4 length hemline heralded ensuing dramatic silhouettes. The coat was made from bonded viscose and cupro, according to the engineering textbook-cum-program on my seat. While the clothing was decidedly simple, the "hammered," "glazed," and "engineered" fabrics were anything but.

Francisco Costa, the designer, may be known for his structuralist approach but some of the conceptual shapes looked so rigid that I wondered if one could actually sit down in them. The boxy double faced wool jackets and coats that swallowed the Amazonian models held little promise for other body types. I was surprised to learn that the geometric silhouettes were inspired by the calla lilly (and not Spongebob Squarepants, as initially feared).

Fortunately, the contentious experimental looks were eclipsed by a panoply of classic pieces - the sort of designs that made Calvin Klein a household name. The tailored cashmere shift dresses, ivory shearling trenches and high waisted trousers have broad appeal. The palette of neutrals (spliced with two jolts of cobalt blue) kept the collection "spare and essential."

Geometric lug soled platforms with metal detail sound clumsy but looked vampish, especially with the silver lurex dresses. These languid sheaths proved to be the ideal antidote to earlier austerity. Even though Costa confirmed that angular shapes are best left to mathematicians, he is excused. It wouldn't be fashion without some experimentation.

The unorthodox choices were neutralised by retrospection, even nostalgia. The biggest salute to bygone years was the unexpected resurrection of a triad of 90s' models. Stella Tennant, Kristen McMenamy and Kirsty Hume fused seamlessly with the lineup of today's most in demand models, effectively transposing past and future. This is the perfect example of how Thursday's show masterfully employed tradition and innovation to emphasise the clothing's most appreciable asset: timelessness.

All images by Steve Prue

Comments

There are no comments yet, be the first to comment on this article.